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How to Repair and Seal Your Asphalt Driveway

2:24 AM | Labels: How to

So often when we think of home repair, we focus on areas inside the house first. Then we shift our attention to the exterior portions of the house, often forgetting that the driveway is an extension of the home. I know from experience that this is often the case. When we purchased our house, we spent the first two years working on the inside, painting walls, stripping wallpaper, replacing carpeting. During that period, we spent time landscaping, adding trees and bushes, planting perennials and incorporating annuals. Lost in the frenzy of work was the asphalt driveway that introduced people to our home. After two years of wear and tear, it began to show our neglect, with small cracks and discoloration. Before long, the cracks widened, eventually forming small pits and potholes. We realized the mistake we had made and were determined to mend our ways and our driveway. The problem was, we weren’t sure where to start.

As with any project worth doing right, we began by seeking information, in part to understand how asphalt worked, and to understand why the damage was occurring. Here is some of what we discovered:

• What is it made of? Asphalt is a black substance formed from a combination of gravel and the residual leftovers of the distillation of petroleum. The petroleum residue is used as a binder to hold the gravel together. When this combination is heated and packed together, it forms a very hard, very sturdy surface, perfect for roads and driveways.

• Why is it a good substance to use in driveways? Asphalt is water resistant and elastic enough to withstand rigorous weather conditions, which would cause buckling and heaving in other materials. It has tremendous compression strength, allowing it to withstand use by heavy vehicles.

• How long should it last? Asphalt has a relatively good longevity when used in driveways. It has the capacity to last fifteen to twenty years. Having said this, as with any surface, it can crack and wear down without proper maintenance. Holes can appear as well, if minor problems are not dealt with.

• What causes the damage to asphalt? Weather is the primary culprit. When temperatures change, it stresses the materials in asphalt. In cold weather, precipitation can build up on the driveway, causing water to seep into the semi porous surface. When this water thaws and freezes, it creates expansion in these pockets, causing cracks to form. The cracks allow more water to seep in, and the process gets worse and worse. If the cracks are not fixed when the weather warms up, the cracking is compounded with each successive year. Also, the buildup of car oil and the chemicals used to melt snow and ice during the winter can help break down the asphalt surface even more.

• When should damage be fixed? The initial answer is as soon as it is detected. However, if detection occurs during the cold winter months, it is best to wait until the weather warms up. The weather must remain clear, with no precipitation, and the temperature must remain above 45 degrees for a minimum of 24 hours. Asphalt is difficult to work with when it is cold, and you will not get the kind of quality bonding and sealing that you would in warm weather. It would be better to wait until late Spring to expend the effort. You will get much better results that way.

Once we were armed with knowledge, we focused our attention on fixing the holes and cracks that had developed across our driveways. Here is what we did to mend each area:

Repairing the Cracks

1. Sweep the area around the crack to remove organic debris and pebbles.
2. Clean any gravel fragments or organic matter from the crack itself. Remember weeds and grass seek out cracks to grow in. You want to make sure that no portion of the plant is left. Otherwise, the roots will grow and regenerate the weed or grass, again helping the crack to reform.
3. Once the area is clean, use a caulk gun loaded with a high quality asphalt patching compound to fill the cracks.
4. Using a trowel, press the asphalt compound into the crack, making sure that the compound is smooth and free of dirt, gravel, and organic debris.
5. Using a brush or paint roller, apply a good coat of asphalt sealer to the patched crack and surrounding area. This will create a waterproof barrier and will help bond the crack with the surface.

Repairing Holes

1. Sweep the area around the hole to remove organic debris and pebbles.
2. Clean any dirt, rocks, gravel fragments, or organic matter from the hole itself.
3. If there are loose pieces of asphalt around the edges of the hole, carefully remove them. The outer edge of the hole must be clean, firm asphalt, otherwise the patch will not bond properly.
4. If the hole is deep, pack the bottom of the hole with clean, coarse gravel, stopping when the hole is halfway filled or when the gravel is about 3 to 4 inches from the rim.
5. Add asphalt until the level is one inch from the rim.
6. Use a trowel or small shovel to jab the asphalt, removing any air pockets that might have formed in the fill process. This is very important. Air pockets will provide areas for moisture to collect. When it freezes, the water will expand, creating a larger problem than when you began.
7. Tamp down the asphalt, either with a tamper or a long section of 4x4. This will help compact the asphalt, ensuring even fewer air pockets.
8. Fill the rest of the hole with asphalt until it is half an inch above the rim line.
9. Tamp down the asphalt until it is smooth and even with the rest of the surface. Remember, if you are using a 4x4 to tamp, the longer the piece, the heavier it will be. The heavier it is, the better tamping compression you will get.
10. Sprinkle the patch with a layer of sand. This will prevent things from sticking to the asphalt.
11. If one is available to you, pack down the asphalt with a lawn roller. This will ensure that the patch is completely level. If a lawn roller is not available, drive your car wheel over the area. The weight of the car will pack down the asphalt Again, the focus is removing as much air as possible.
12. Using a brush or paint roller, apply a layer of asphalt sealer over the entire area, concentrating on the patch and the surrounding area. Allow it to set undisturbed for 24 to 48 hours.
13. Once the sealer has set, apply another coat of sealer to the same area, allowing it to set undisturbed for the same amount of time.

With the cracks and holes fixed, you can now apply sealer to the entire driveway. Sealing is an important part of maintaining the integrity of the asphalt. Treating your driveway every year or two will extend the life of the drive, even to the point of carrying it beyond the normal lifespan.

Taking care of your driveway is worth the effort. A beautifully maintained drive will add to the surrounding beauty of your home, cutting a graceful path through the landscape of your yard. Be the envy of the neighborhood by showing them what a perfect driveway can do for curb appeal.

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How to Design a Deck

2:23 AM | Labels: How to

Inside this document you will find information about:

Deck Design Considerations
Planning Your Deck
DECK DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

A deck is a popular home improvement that not only adds to the value of your home, but provides a focal point for enjoying the outdoors. You'll want to carefully consider the design elements that go into your deck–it should include the features that match your lifestyle and complement the design of your house. Planning is the most important part of building a deck, because, chances are, you'll be living with your design for a long time From the Sunset book, Decks, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

From the Sunset book, Decks, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

There are three main considerations when planning a deck. Several questions must be answered in each topic. This document explains each topic and provides the background information you'll need to make informed choices. A base map helps you find the best location for your deck. From the Sunset book, Decks, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

A base map helps you find the best location for your deck. From the Sunset book, Decks, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

How You Plan to Use Your Deck–The most important consideration in deck design is how you will use it. Do you entertain frequently, and if so, how large a group will you need space for? What kind of seating will you need–would you or your guests be more comfortable on built-in benches or patio furniture? Do you want the space arranged to accommodate conversations between small groups, or in one large common area? Will you need adequate lighting to entertain at night? Maximum spacing will be determined by building codes. Railings give you an opportunity to be creative with your design. From the Sunset book, Decks, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

Maximum spacing will be determined by building codes. Railings give you an opportunity to be creative with your design. From the Sunset book, Decks, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

Try to imagine all the ways you'd like to use your deck, because most design elements will be based on those kinds of preferences.

Location–Chances are, the size and orientation of your property and house limit you to one or two deck locations, but within those limits, you may have more choices than you think. You may be able to add a door, build a walkway, or incorporate a privacy screen that will allow you to locate your deck so it is most convenient for your intended uses.

The climate in your area and the views you'll see are the major factors to consider when deciding where to place your deck. A north-side deck will probably be the coolest location. Southern or western orientations may be too warm in the middle of the summer, unless you include an overhead screen, or build the deck around an existing shade tree.

You may be able to avoid prevailing winds by locating your deck where the house will provide some protection. Likewise, careful placement can minimize traffic noise, eliminate unwanted views, or provide additional privacy. If you plan to include a hot tub or swimming pool in your plans, privacy considerations for you and your guests may be very important.

Legal Considerations–Before you decide on a location, first check local zoning ordinances. They will limit the overall size of your deck, height of any privacy screens, and the minimum distance from your deck to your lot lines. Neighborhood or subdivision covenants may restrict the appearance of the structure, and you'll have to get approval for your design.

Also, check with the local building department to find out whether you'll be required to have a building permit, and what kind of plans you'll have to submit. Finally, be sure to check with your local utility companies to make sure you won't run afoul of utility rights-of-way, and to locate buried pipes and utility lines.

Size–You can build any size deck you want within legal limits. But even within those limits, a deck can be either too big or too small. The most important consideration (aside from cost) is use, but a huge deck can look out of place next to a small house, just as a tiny deck looks wrong with a big house. If you think your dream deck is too large for your house, break up the expanse by building smaller sections on multiple levels.

To test your ideas, measure the size you want on your lawn. Drive 4-foot stakes at the approximate corners, then tie string between them at about the height of the railings. Set your lawn furniture in the area to get an idea of how the space will work. The most common mistake people make is building a deck too small. The difference in cost between a deck that is a little too small and one that is the right size usually isn't that much.

One tip: If possible, size your deck in 2-foot or 4-foot increments. You'll have to buy standard lumber lengths anyway, and there's no point in wasting that material when you could have a larger deck for the same amount of money.

PLANNING YOUR DECK

Shape and Decking Patterns–A deck can be any shape you want, and in fact, simple changes like an angled corner or a 45-degree decking pattern can dress up a house with a long, plain wall. Of course, a more complicated deck is more difficult to build, and may require more materials. You can also add visual interest by wrapping the deck around a corner, adding built-in benches, integrating a fence or screen on one side, or even adding an overhead screen.
Height–Usually, the decking should come to within 2 " of the bottom of the access door from the house, with steps leading from the deck to the ground. On sloped ground, you may want to build your deck in multiple levels to follow the slope. Typically, wherever the deck is more than 48" off the ground, codes require that the posts be braced to prevent swaying and racking.
Cutouts–A spa or hot tub can be set on the deck if the structure is reinforced to carry the weight of the water, or it can be set directly on a concrete slab on the ground, with the deck built around it. Existing trees and rocks can also be integrated into the deck by framing around them; then either cap the ends of the decking or contour the decking to the shape of the obstacle. If you work around a tree, leave at least 3" on all sides to allow for growth. Around a stationary object such as a boulder, leave about 1/4" so the decking can expand and contract with temperature and moisture changes.
Railings–Railings are the most prominent visual element in a deck, and offer great opportunity to use your imagination and creativity. They may be fastened to posts that run all the way to the ground, along the sides of the rim joists, or attached to the decking itself. They may include wood, metal, or even rope–nearly anything that satisfies structural requirements.
Your railing design will be limited primarily by building code regulations that are designed to ensure safety. Typically, those codes state that support posts may be no more than 6' apart, and that the railing may have no spaces larger than 4" x 4". The durability of your railing will also be affected by the design. For example, the ends of the railing posts should be covered or cut at an angle to shed water, to minimize cracking and splitting.
Steps and Stairs–Step and stair construction is closely regulated by building codes. As a rule, steps and stairs should be at least 36" wide–60" if you want two people to be able to pass each other comfortably. The rise (vertical distance between steps) should be no more than 7-1/2" and the width of a tread at least 10". The slope should not be too steep–a 7" riser with a 10-1/2" tread is a common combination. Building codes will also govern how the stair is supported and attached, and whether or not you need a railing.

Structural Components–There are five basic components of a typical deck: 1) Vertical posts are set in concrete or on piers set on a concrete footing. They are typically spaced 4' to 8' apart.
2) Horizontal beams are set on the posts parallel to the decking to carry the weight of the deck.
3) Joists are run between the beams, typically 16" or 24" apart. They distribute the weight of the deck and allow you to use decking boards that wouldn't be strong enough to span the distance between the beams.
4) Decking is laid over the joists to form the "floor" of the deck.
5) Railings are usually 36" to 42" high, designed so no spaces between balusters are greater than 4".
The materials used, and the size and spacing of these components, are specified by local building codes.
Materials–Deck materials must not only be resistant to decay and insect damage, but also withstand the effects of water and sun. Standard construction lumber such as fir, pine or spruce may be treated to protect it from rot, but it won't hold up under extreme weather conditions or the ultraviolet rays in sunlight. You'll get much better durability by using pressure-treated pine, redwood, or cedar. Pressure-treated material is the least expensive, and can be stained to nearly any color you want. Redwood and cedar offer an added advantage in that they are soft, fine-grained woods that will resist splintering. If you use redwood or cedar, remember that only the heartwood–the reddish-colored portion of redwood or the dark brownish-orange part of a cedar board–is decay-resistant. The lighter-colored sapwood will deteriorate just as quickly as pine or spruce.
Once you have a rough idea of what you want, draw two sketches–one of your lot, showing the deck as part of your landscaping plan, and one of your design. Use graph paper, making each square equal a given dimension (for example, each square may equal 1' on your lot plan, or 3" on your design) to get all the components roughly to scale. Take the sketch to your local home center or lumberyard, and ask a salesperson to estimate and price the materials you'll need.

Decking may be laid in a variety of patterns, including diagonal, checkerboard, and herringbone. The pattern you choose will determine the configuration of the supporting joists and beams. From the Sunset book, Decks, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

Anatomy of a stair. From the Sunset book, Decks, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

As you decide how your deck will look, draw a detailed sketch on graph paper. From the Sunset book, Decks, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

Anatomy of a deck. From the Sunset book, Deck Plans, Â©Sunset Publishing Corporation.

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How to Maintain an Asphalt Driveway

2:36 AM | Labels: How to

Materials available for asphalt driveway maintenance include emulsified liquids, plastic fillers and solid cold-patches. For a complete driveway rejuvenation, you may need all three.
Before tackling any maintenance or repair, check your driveway for these conditions:
Impressions left by car tires after the car has been parked on the drive overnight. This is an indication of poor construction.
Heaving or tilting during cold weather, or buckling or cracking with the spring thaw. These are signs of poor drainage.
To repair these troubles, you'll need a new driveway. Fortunately, such problems are not common. More likely problems are minor cracks, crumbling and chuckholes, which are relatively easy to repair.
The procedure and materials used depends on whether you're repairing cracks, filling low spots, patching or seal-coating your driveway. Your local retailer can help you select the products you need for making repairs.
REPAIRING CRACKS

You should fill any cracks in a blacktop drive as soon as possible to keep water from getting under the slab and causing more serious problems. Cracks that are 1/2" and wider are filled with asphalt cold-patch, sold in bags and cans. Narrow cracks are treated with crack-filler, which is available in cans, plastic pour bottles and handy caulking cartridges.
Use a masonry chisel, wire brush or similar tool to dig away chunks of loose and broken material from the crack.
Sweep out the crack with a stiff-bristled broom. Your shop vacuum will also work well.
Use a garden hose with a pressure nozzle to clean off all dust. If the area is badly soiled or covered with oil or grease drippings, scrub it with a strong commercial driveway cleaning agent. For a patch to adhere, the crack must be free of all such things. After using a cleaner, rinse the area with water.
For a deep crack, fill it to within 1/4" of the top with closed-cell plastic backer rod or sand before applying a patching compound.
Apply the crack-filler.

FILLING DEPRESSED AREAS

Depressed areas, sometimes called "birdbaths," cause water puddles on the driveway. If not too deep–less than an inch–these areas can be filled so they're even with the surrounding surface. Sweep away all dirt, hose down the area and remove any oil or grease by washing with a detergent or cleaner.
The surface may be slightly damp when applying the patching material, but make sure there is no standing water.
To help the new material adhere to the old, prime the area with emulsified liquid asphalt, which is often simply called "driveway coating."
Then, use a trowel to spread asphalt cold-patching material into the depression, filling it level with the surrounding surface. Smooth the patch, then tamp it with a metal tamper or a 5' to 6' length of 2x8 or 4x4 lumber. Used vertically, the lumber has the surface area and weight for successful tamping.
Allow your blacktop patch to dry for 24 hours before seal-coating the entire driveway.

PATCHING CHUCKHOLES

For chuckholes or potholes, first dig out any loose material and dirt down to a solid base. It's best to undercut the edges slightly to provide a "key" for the patching material. Make sure the edges of the asphalt around the hole are firm.
Clean all dust and debris from the hole and surrounding areas.
If the hole is very deep, fill it to within 4" of the top with gravel. Tamp this down firmly.
You don't have to work with hot-mix patchers as professionals do–cold-mix patching products do an excellent job of repairing driveways. Fluid cold-patches that come in cans may need to be stirred before use. Use a strong stick or a stirring attachment chucked into your electric drill.
You can prime the repair area by painting it with emulsified asphalt liquid. Priming helps the new material bond to the old. Then apply the cold-patch material, patting it down occasionally with a shovel or trowel to help compact it and prevent air pockets from forming.
Put in a 2" depth of cold-patch and tamp it firmly or roll it with a garden roller. Add more material in 2" lifts, tamping each lift. The next-to-last lift should fill the hole to within an inch of the top. Tamp it as shown.
Now add more patching material, filling the hole and mounding it slightly above the surrounding surface. Tamp it down as firmly as you can. You can tamp it by hand or by repeatedly running your car's tire over it.
Fill in any low areas with more cold-patch mix. Compact it until it's even with the driveway surface.
Allow the repaired area to cure for 12 to 36 hours before driving on it, and give it two to five days to cure before seal-coating the entire driveway.

SEALING THE DRIVE

Use a sealant to coat blacktop surfaces every few years. The ideal time to seal your drive is after you have completed any repairs. Sealer gives a fresh, new look to a driveway. And it does more than that–it provides protection from sun and moisture and from grease, oil and gasoline drips and spills, as well as other damaging substances. Sealer guards against everyday wear and tear. It also fills hairline cracks that aren't serious enough to require individual patching.
The blacktop surface must be clean before you apply sealer. This includes dust, dirt, grease, oil and debris. Sweep it clean. Remove grease and oil spots with detergent or cleaner. End the cleaning by rinsing the area thoroughly with water. Squeegee water from any puddled spots. It is not necessary that the surface be thoroughly dry before applying the sealer, but don't do the job when rain is forecast.
Stir the sealer to make sure its ingredients are well-blended.
Some sealers can be applied with a long-handled paint roller. However, the best tool for this is a combination squeegee/broom made for the purpose and available from your retailer. Apply the sealer only to a small area of the driveway at a time. Pour it out and spread it around evenly with the squeegee, brush or roller. Don't spread the sealer too thin–one good coat stands up for a long time. Allow small cracks and weathered areas to drink in the sealer.
Be very careful to avoid splashing sealer onto walls, garage doors and yourself. Moreover, plan the project so you will not have to walk across the treated areas. Use care–this material can make a mess of house floors.
Improve traction on sloped areas by adding sand to the sealer mix. Stir it in thoroughly before applying, and keep the mix stirred during application.
You can sprinkle sand over a sealer surface that's still wet. Excess sand not captured by the sealer can be swept up later.
Allow the sealer to cure for 24 hours before using the driveway (products vary in the setting times, so check to see what's required by the one you use). Erect string barriers at the street end of the drive to remind family members to keep off and to discourage casual traffic from spoiling your efforts.

ASPHALT SAFETY CHECKLIST

When working with any asphaltic material, avoid prolonged contact of the material with your skin.
Excessive breathing of asphalt materials should be avoided, too.
Wear heavy work gloves, old clothing and old shoes if you want to be protected from asphalt spatters.
When chipping or chiseling old blacktop, wear eye protection. Also, don't chisel with a carpenter's hammer because it isn't designed for this type of job and its face may chip. Instead, use a hand-drilling hammer or machinist's hammer.
Keep all asphalt materials away from high heat. Keep solvent-thinned materials away from open flames.
Close containers after each use.
Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for the product you are using.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Asphalt Crack Filler
Asphalt Cold-Patch
Emulsified Liquid Asphalt
Driveway Cleaner
Detergent
Squeegee/Broom
Masonry Chisel
Hand-Drilling or Machinist's Hammer
Shovel, Spade
Stiff-Bristled Broom
Garden Hose
Pressure Nozzle
Shop Vacuum
Trowel
Stirring Stick
Tamper
Garden Roller
Long-Handled Paint Roller
Long-Nap Roller Cover
Closed-Cell Backer Rod
Rope Oakum
Sand
Gravel
Wire Brush

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How to Repair and Seal Your Asphalt Driveway

How to Design a Deck

How to Maintain an Asphalt Driveway