Home Improvement and Remodeling

Over the years even the best built asphalt driveways will develop bumps ands hollows. Some of those hollows will eventually become holes that can make your driveway a distinct pain to drive on, unattractive to look at and very expensive to fix if you hire someone to do the job. Fortunately, you can fix those potholes with some sweat equity and a few dollars using tools you've already go and inexpensive patching material available at your home store.
What causes potholes
Asphalt roadways (and driveways) are made in a similar fashion. The base is made from compacted earth and gravel  (for drainage) then covered with asphalt (basically a mix of tar, oil byproducts and small aggregate gravel) that in theory keeps moisture away from the base. However, over time the heat of the summer sun and the weight of vehicles driving on the surface will cause small cracks to form in the surface and water will get down into the base layer. Once water is in the underlying ground it will freeze (and expand) in cold weather, displacing gravel and earth and creating a void under the asphalt surface. Eventually that asphalt itself will cave in and presto you've got a pothole. (Even in areas where the temperature doesn't get cold enough to freeze, the water will eventually displace base gravel and earth and create a pothole).
What you need to fix a pothole

• Bag of asphalt cold patch (a mixture of small aggregate gravel coated with asphalt - available at home stores)
• Shovel
• Broom
• Dustpan or shop vac
• Hose and spray nozzle
• Sturdy work gloves
• 4" by 4" - 3 to 4 feet long
• Sheet of plywood (optional)

Fixing your pothole
It's best to fix a pothole on a warm dry day. (Remember we did say sweat equity was required).
Use your shovel to dig out any loose asphalt or gravel in the hole itself. Be sure to get rid of loose (but still slightly attached pieces of asphalt). You want to get right down to the compacted gravel base of your driveway.
After you've removed the loose pieces, use your broom or shop vac to clean up the hole. Make sure you get rid of all the loose gravel in the hole, or your repair won't bond well.
Once your pothole has been cleaned up, give it a quick spray with your hose. You don't want to soak the hole, just make sure you wet it enough to keep any dust settled.
Fill your newly cleaned up and dampened hole with asphalt cold patch to about 1/2 inch above the surface.
Starting at the outside, tamp the patch down using the end of your 4" by 4". Tamping is hard work but it's important you compact the cold patch compound or it will quickly deteriorate and you'll be back doing the same job in a year or so.
If you have a tough time getting your hands around a piece of 4" by 4", you can buy hand tools specially designed for tamping or rent power tamper at your home store. Another alternative (although it doesn’t really do a great job of tamping around the edges of the hole) is to lay a piece of plywood over the repair and drive your car over it a few times.
Finally throw some sand or sweep some dust over your patch so it will blend in with your driveway and the patch material won't stick to your shoes or tires.
Fixing a pothole is hot, messy dirty job. However, the upside is you've probably already most of the tools you need in your garage and cold patch is readily available and cheap (less than $10 a bag). If you take the time to do it right you'll save yourself hundreds of dollars - all in all, a pretty good payback for some sweat equity.

So often when we think of home repair, we focus on areas inside the house first. Then we shift our attention to the exterior portions of the house, often forgetting that the driveway is an extension of the home. I know from experience that this is often the case. When we purchased our house, we spent the first two years working on the inside, painting walls, stripping wallpaper, replacing carpeting. During that period, we spent time landscaping, adding trees and bushes, planting perennials and incorporating annuals. Lost in the frenzy of work was the asphalt driveway that introduced people to our home. After two years of wear and tear, it began to show our neglect, with small cracks and discoloration. Before long, the cracks widened, eventually forming small pits and potholes. We realized the mistake we had made and were determined to mend our ways and our driveway. The problem was, we weren’t sure where to start.

Inside this document you will find information about:

• Deck Design Considerations
• Planning Your Deck 
• DECK DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS 
• A deck is a popular home improvement that not only adds to the value of your home, but provides a focal point for enjoying the outdoors. You'll want to carefully consider the design elements that go into your deck–it should include the features that match your lifestyle and complement the design of your house. Planning is the most important part of building a deck, because, chances are, you'll be living with your design for a long timeThere are three main considerations when planning a deck. Several questions must be answered in each topic. This document explains each topic and provides the background information you'll need to make informed choices.How You Plan to Use Your Deck–The most important consideration in deck design is how you will use it. Do you entertain frequently, and if so, how large a group will you need space for? What kind of seating will you need–would you or your guests be more comfortable on built-in benches or patio furniture? Do you want the space arranged to accommodate conversations between small groups, or in one large common area? Will you need adequate lighting to entertain at night?

  Try to imagine all the ways you'd like to use your deck, because most design elements will be based on those kinds of preferences. Location–Chances are, the size and orientation of your property and house limit you to one or two deck locations, but within those limits, you may have more choices than you think. You may be able to add a door, build a walkway, or incorporate a privacy screen that will allow you to locate your deck so it is most convenient for your intended uses. The climate in your area and the views you'll see are the major factors to consider when deciding where to place your deck. A north-side deck will probably be the coolest location. Southern or western orientations may be too warm in the middle of the summer, unless you include an overhead screen, or build the deck around an existing shade tree. You may be able to avoid prevailing winds by locating your deck where the house will provide some protection. Likewise, careful placement can minimize traffic noise, eliminate unwanted views, or provide additional privacy. If you plan to include a hot tub or swimming pool in your plans, privacy considerations for you and your guests may be very important. Legal Considerations–Before you decide on a location, first check local zoning ordinances. They will limit the overall size of your deck, height of any privacy screens, and the minimum distance from your deck to your lot lines. Neighborhood or subdivision covenants may restrict the appearance of the structure, and you'll have to get approval for your design. Also, check with the local building department to find out whether you'll be required to have a building permit, and what kind of plans you'll have to submit. Finally, be sure to check with your local utility companies to make sure you won't run afoul of utility rights-of-way, and to locate buried pipes and utility lines. Size–You can build any size deck you want within legal limits. But even within those limits, a deck can be either too big or too small. The most important consideration (aside from cost) is use, but a huge deck can look out of place next to a small house, just as a tiny deck looks wrong with a big house. If you think your dream deck is too large for your house, break up the expanse by building smaller sections on multiple levels. To test your ideas, measure the size you want on your lawn. Drive 4-foot stakes at the approximate corners, then tie string between them at about the height of the railings. Set your lawn furniture in the area to get an idea of how the space will work. The most common mistake people make is building a deck too small. The difference in cost between a deck that is a little too small and one that is the right size usually isn't that much. One tip: If possible, size your deck in 2-foot or 4-foot increments. You'll have to buy standard lumber lengths anyway, and there's no point in wasting that material when you could have a larger deck for the same amount of money.

  PLANNING YOUR DECK Shape and Decking Patterns–A deck can be any shape you want, and in fact, simple changes like an angled corner or a 45-degree decking pattern can dress up a house with a long, plain wall. Of course, a more complicated deck is more difficult to build, and may require more materials. You can also add visual interest by wrapping the deck around a corner, adding built-in benches, integrating a fence or screen on one side, or even adding an overhead screen. Height–Usually, the decking should come to within 2 " of the bottom of the access door from the house, with steps leading from the deck to the ground. On sloped ground, you may want to build your deck in multiple levels to follow the slope. Typically, wherever the deck is more than 48" off the ground, codes require that the posts be braced to prevent swaying and racking. Cutouts–A spa or hot tub can be set on the deck if the structure is reinforced to carry the weight of the water, or it can be set directly on a concrete slab on the ground, with the deck built around it. Existing trees and rocks can also be integrated into the deck by framing around them; then either cap the ends of the decking or contour the decking to the shape of the obstacle. If you work around a tree, leave at least 3" on all sides to allow for growth. Around a stationary object such as a boulder, leave about 1/4" so the decking can expand and contract with temperature and moisture changes. Railings–Railings are the most prominent visual element in a deck, and offer great opportunity to use your imagination and creativity. They may be fastened to posts that run all the way to the ground, along the sides of the rim joists, or attached to the decking itself. They may include wood, metal, or even rope–nearly anything that satisfies structural requirements. Your railing design will be limited primarily by building code regulations that are designed to ensure safety. Typically, those codes state that support posts may be no more than 6' apart, and that the railing may have no spaces larger than 4" x 4". The durability of your railing will also be affected by the design. For example, the ends of the railing posts should be covered or cut at an angle to shed water, to minimize cracking and splitting. Steps and Stairs–Step and stair construction is closely regulated by building codes. As a rule, steps and stairs should be at least 36" wide–60" if you want two people to be able to pass each other comfortably. The rise (vertical distance between steps) should be no more than 7-1/2" and the width of a tread at least 10". The slope should not be too steep–a 7" riser with a 10-1/2" tread is a common combination. Building codes will also govern how the stair is supported and attached, and whether or not you need a railing. Structural Components–There are five basic components of a typical deck: 1) Vertical posts are set in concrete or on piers set on a concrete footing. They are typically spaced 4' to 8' apart. 2) Horizontal beams are set on the posts parallel to the decking to carry the weight of the deck. 3) Joists are run between the beams, typically 16" or 24" apart. They distribute the weight of the deck and allow you to use decking boards that wouldn't be strong enough to span the distance between the beams. 4) Decking is laid over the joists to form the "floor" of the deck. 5) Railings are usually 36" to 42" high, designed so no spaces between balusters are greater than 4". The materials used, and the size and spacing of these components, are specified by local building codes. Materials–Deck materials must not only be resistant to decay and insect damage, but also withstand the effects of water and sun. Standard construction lumber such as fir, pine or spruce may be treated to protect it from rot, but it won't hold up under extreme weather conditions or the ultraviolet rays in sunlight. You'll get much better durability by using pressure-treated pine, redwood, or cedar. Pressure-treated material is the least expensive, and can be stained to nearly any color you want. Redwood and cedar offer an added advantage in that they are soft, fine-grained woods that will resist splintering. If you use redwood or cedar, remember that only the heartwood–the reddish-colored portion of redwood or the dark brownish-orange part of a cedar board–is decay-resistant. The lighter-colored sapwood will deteriorate just as quickly as pine or spruce. Once you have a rough idea of what you want, draw two sketches–one of your lot, showing the deck as part of your landscaping plan, and one of your design. Use graph paper, making each square equal a given dimension (for example, each square may equal 1' on your lot plan, or 3" on your design) to get all the components roughly to scale. Take the sketch to your local home center or lumberyard, and ask a salesperson to estimate and price the materials you'll need.

  
  

Safety

All Purpose Cleaners

• Vinegar and Salt. Mix together for a good surface cleaner.
• Baking Soda. Dissolve 4 tablespoons baking soda in 1 quart warm water for a general cleaner. Or use baking soda on a damp sponge. Baking soda will clean and deodorize all kitchen and bathroom surfaces.
• Anti-Fog Glass Spray. To make a homemade anti-fogging glass cleaner try any one of the three following:
  1. rub a few drops of liquid dish washing detergent applied with a damp paper towel over the window (or)
  2. 2 oz white vinegar to 1 quart tap water (or)
  3. 1 oz. sudsy ammonia, 4 oz. rubbing alcohol, 1/4 teaspoon liquid dish washing detergent, 1 quart water

Baking Dishes - Enamel, Ceramic or Glass

Soak in hot soapy water, then scour with salt or baking soda and rinse thoroughly.

Bathroom Bowl Cleaners

• Toilet Bowl Cleaner - IF YOU DO USE BLEACH TO CLEAN YOUR TOILET BOWL, NEVER MIX BLEACH WITH VINEGAR, TOILET BOWL CLEANER, OR AMMONIA. The combination of bleach with any of these substances produces a toxic gas which can be hazardous.
  
• Baking Soda and Vinegar. Sprinkle baking soda into the bowl, then drizzle with vinegar and scour with a toilet brush. This combination both cleans and deodorizes.
  
• Borax and Lemon Juice. For removing a stubborn stain, like toilet bowl ring, mix enough borax and lemon juice into a paste which can cover the entire ring. Flush toilet to wet the sides, then rub on paste. Let sit for 2 hours and scrub thoroughly. For less stubborn toilet bowl rings, sprinkle baking soda around the rim and scrub with a toilet brush.

Candles

Sponge with a piece of cotton dipped in rubbing alcohol.

Ceramic Tub And Tile Cleaners

• Baking Soda. Sprinkle baking soda like you would scouring powder. Rub with a damp sponge. Rinse thoroughly. To clean grout, put 3 cups baking soda into a medium-sized bowl and add 1 cup warm water. Mix into a smooth paste and scrub into grout with a sponge or toothbrush. Rinse thoroughly and dispose of leftover paste when finished.
• Vinegar and Baking Soda. To remove film buildup on bathtubs, apply vinegar full-strength to a sponge and wipe with vinegar first. Next, use baking soda as you would scouring powder. Rub with a damp sponge and rinse thoroughly with clean water.
• Vinegar. Vinegar removes most dirt without scrubbing and doesn't leave a film. Use 1/4 cup (or more) vinegar to 1 gallon water.

Removing Christmas Tree Pitch
When working with evergreen branches, trimming the Christmas tree, or working with evergreen cones, the resin or pitch from the cones or cut ends of branches will stick to the skin. To remove try either of two methods:

1. dampen a cloth with rubbing alcohol and rub the spots or
2. rub the spots with lard or vegetable shortening; then wipe off with paper towels or cloth and wash remaining grease off with soap and water. Easiest way is to put a tablespoonful or so of shortening on a scrap of waxed paper or foil and lay a couple paper towels beside it on a newspaper before starting to work with the evergreens; then, at end of job you can just run shortening on sticky spots on hands, wipe off and discard on paper; wash hands and discard paper in trash without getting sticky or very greasy hands on surfaces in home.

Cobwebs

For hard to reach spots, slip a sock over the end of a yardstick and secure with a rubber band, then sweep the area. This method works well for cleaning under radiators and refrigerators also.

Coffee Stains

To remove coffee stains from cups or counters, rub with baking soda paste. For stubborn stains, rub a drop of chlorine bleach into the affected area until the stain disappears, then wash immediately with hot soapy water to prevent fading, and rinse well.

Concrete Grease Spot Remover

To remove grease from concrete flooring sprinkle dry cement over grease. Allow it to absorb the grease, then sweep up.

Decal and Gummed Label Remover

Vinegar. To remove non slip appliques and strips from bathtubs, saturate a cloth or sponge and squeeze hot vinegar over decals. Vinegar also removes stick-on hooks from painted walls. Saturate a cloth or sponge with vinegar and squeeze the liquid behind the hook so that the vinegar comes in contact with the adhesive. In addition, vinegar can be used to remove price labels and other decals from glass, wood, and china. Paint the label or decal with several coats of white vinegar. Give the vinegar time to soak in and after several minutes the decal can be rubbed off.

Disinfectant

• Soap. Regular cleaning with plain soap and hot water will kill some bacteria. Keep things dry. Mold, mildew, and bacteria cannot live without moisture.
  
• Borax has long been recognized for its disinfectant and deodorizing properties. Mix 1/2 cup Borax into 1 gallon hot water and clean with this solution.
  
• Isopropyl Alcohol. This is an excellent disinfectant. Sponge and allow to dry. (It must dry to do its job.) Use in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves.

Grease

Rub greasy spots with a mild or moderate abrasive, such as fine steel wool, and a dish detergent until they disappear.

Lime And Mineral Deposit Remover

Vinegar and Paper Towels. Hard lime deposits around faucets can be softened for easy removal by covering the deposits with vinegar-soaked paper towels. Leave the paper towels on for about one hour before cleaning. Leaves chrome clean and shiny.
For Plastic and Metal Shower Heads : Vinegar. To remove deposits which may be clogging your metal shower head, combine 1/2 cup white vinegar and one quart water. Then completely submerge the shower head and boil 15 minutes. If you have a plastic shower head, combine 1 pint white vinegar and 1 pint hot water. Then completely submerge the shower head and soak for about one hour.

Mildew Remover

Dilute 3/4 cup chlorine bleach in 1 gal of water. Apply to tile and grout and scrub; wipe shower stall and curtain; rinse thoroughly.

Oven Cleaners

The first step is prevention. Put a sheet of aluminum foil on the floor of the oven, underneath but not touching the heating element. Although this may slightly affect the browning of the food, the foil can be easily disposed of when soiled. Clean up the spill as soon as it occurs.
Fill a small glass bowl with 1/2 cup full-strength ammonia, place in oven and close. Let stand overnight, then wipe loosened dirt with paper towels or newspapers. If necessary, rub surfaces with a suitable abrasive, such as fine steel wool, then wash with warm soapy water and rinse. Repeat process if necessary.

• Salt While the oven is still warm, sprinkle salt on the spill. If the spill is completely dry, wet the spill lightly before sprinkling on salt. When the oven cools down, scrape away the spill and wash the area clean.
• Vinegar Retard grease buildup in your oven by dampening your cleaning rag in vinegar and water before wiping out your oven.
• Baking Soda and Very Fine Steel Wool Sprinkle water followed by a layer of baking soda. Rub gently with a very fine steel wool pad for tough spots. Wipe off scum with dry paper towels or a sponge. Rinse well and wipe dry.

Paint Brush Renewer

Vinegar. Soften hard paintbrushes in hot vinegar for a few minutes. Then wash paintbrush in soap and warm water and set out to dry.

Pet Urine

Dab area with toweling, wash with suds of liquid dish detergent, and rinse with 1/2 cup vinegar diluted in 1 qt warm water. Lay towels or paper towels over the spot and weight down to absorb excess moisture. Let stand 4 to 6 hours, then remove toweling, brush up nap and allow to dry completely. To speed drying, use an electric fan.

Plumbing Fixtures

To clean stainless steel, chrome, fiberglass, ceramic, porcelain or enamel fixtures, dissolve 2 tbsp baking soda in 1 qt of water

Porcelain Cleaner

Cream of Tartar. To clean porcelain surfaces, rub with cream of tartar sprinkled on a damp cloth. Works well on light stains.

Pots and Pans

Burned, and Crusted on Foods Soak or boil a solution of 2 tbs. baking soda per qt of water in each pan. Let stand until particles are loosened, then wash as usual. Use a mild or moderate abrasive if necessary.

Purple Price Marks

Refrigerators

To clean exterior and interior walls, dissolve 2 tbs. baking soda in 1 qt warm water and wipe all surfaces. For stubborn spots, rub with baking soda paste. Be sure to rinse with a clean, wet cloth. (This works well on other enamel-finished appliances as well.)
To clean interior fixtures, such as vegetable bins and shelves, wash in hot soapy water, rinse well and dry.

Rust Remover

Peeled Potatoes and Baking Soda or Salt. To remove rust from tin-ware, rub with a peeled potato dipped in a mild abrasive such as baking soda or salt.
Aluminum Foil. Briskly scrub rust spots on car bumpers with a piece of crumpled aluminum foil, shiny side up. Also works well on the chrome shafts of golf clubs.

Rust Stain and Hard Water Deposit Remover

Apply full-strength vinegar or lemon juice and let stand until spot disappears, then rinse. Repeat if necessary.

Scouring Powder

The amount of chlorine in scouring powder is usually not significant enough to cause harm. If you want to totally avoid chlorine or are sensitive to it follow this recipe. Non-Chlorine Scouring Powder Baking Soda or Dry Table Salt. Both of these substances are mild abrasives and can be used as an alternative to chlorine scouring powders. Simply put either baking soda or salt on a sponge or the surface you wish to clean and then scour and rinse.

Shoe Polish

Cold Pressed Nut Oil, Olive Oil, Walnut Oil, or Beeswax. Apply oil to leather product and buff with a chamois cloth to a shine. Lemon Juice. Lemon juice is good polish for black or tan leather shoes. Follow by buffing with a soft cloth. Vinegar. Remove water stains on leather by rubbing with a cloth dipped in a vinegar and water solution. Petroleum Jelly. A dab of petroleum jelly rubbed into patent leather gives a glistening shine and prevents cracking in the winter. Vinegar. To shine patent leather, moisten a soft cloth with white vinegar and wipe clean all patent leather articles. The color of the leather may be slightly changed. Art-Gum Eraser and Sandpaper or Emery Board. Dirt marks on suede can be rubbed out with an art-gum eraser. Then buff lightly with sandpaper or an emery board.

Soap Scum Remover

Apply baking soda dry or as a thick paste, rub vigorously with a wet sponge, then rinse.

Stained No-Stick Cookware

To remove stains from no-stick surfaces, pour a solution of 1 cup water, 2 tbs. baking soda and 1/2 cup chlorine bleach into the pan and simmer 5 to 10 minutes. Do not allow mixture to boil or to boil over the side of the pan. Wash in hot soapy water, rinse and dry. Apply a light coating of cooking oil. (Note: This formula may fade dark-colored surfaces.)

Sticky Labels

Tea Stains

To remove tea stains from cups or counters, rub with baking soda paste. For stubborn stains, rub a drop of chlorine bleach into the affected area until the stain disappears, then wash immediately with hot soapy water to prevent fading, and rinse well.

Telephone Cleaner

Sponge with a piece of cotton dipped in rubbing alcohol.

Toilet Bowl Cleaner

Pour 1/4 cup full strength chlorine bleach OR 1/2 cup full strength ammonia into bowl. DO NOT USE BOTH. Swish with a bowl brush and flush.

Windshield Wiper Frost Free Fluid

When you have to leave your car outside overnight in the winter, mix 3 parts vinegar to 1 part water and coat the windows with this solution. This vinegar and water combination will keep windshields ice and frost-free.

Where To Find Some Chemicals

Common basic ingredients used for most homemade cleaners can be bought in the grocery store. If you want some of the less common ingredients, here is a list of where you can usually find them. Not all paint or hardware stores will carry them; phone to find one that does, as some ingredients are not much in demand today.

• Acetone -  hardware and drug store (is in nail polish remover)
• Art Gum -  art supplies
• Boiled Linseed Oil -  hardware or paint store
• Denatured Alcohol  -  hardware or drug store
• Fuller's Earth  -  hardware or drug store
• Gum Turpentine  -   art supplies, hardware or paint store
• Neats Foot Oil  -  shoe repair shop or hardware
• Oxalic Acid  -  hardware or drug store
• Pumice Powder  -  paint or hardware store
• Raw Linseed Oil  -   hardware or paint store
• Rotten-stone  -  hardware or paint store
• Stick Shellac   -  art supplies, hardware or paint store
• Tung Oil  -  paint store
• Whiting  -  hardware (or school athletic department - used to mark white lines on field.